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Binoculars!
Besides good quality
outdoor clothing, there is probably no product that transcends the
borders of outdoor sports like good quality binoculars. You’ll find
them put to good use by boaters, skiers, hikers, bikers, hunters,
fishers, birdwatchers, rock climbers….well, you get the idea. When
you are ready to purchase one of these fine instruments, the hard
part is how to make an intelligent and appropriate purchase from the
vast range of brands, styles, powers of magnification, and
prices.
Simply put, there are times when a high-quality,
light weight and expensive pair of binoculars are absolutely
necessary, and then there are times when another selection, very
reasonably priced, will be an appropriate choice. The key is getting
some background information about which magnifications are used for
what purposes, information about how different binoculars are
manufactured, what that means to their performance, and how all that
relates to how you plan to use them.
So, with that in mind,
we’ve put together a basic primer on binoculars that should get you
a long way to narrowing your selection…..read below on “How to Buy
Binoculars” for some good basic information, and for more help in
making your selection, stop in or give us a call.
How To Buy
Binoculars
The pair of binoculars you
buy will probably end up lasting you a lifetime. The following
discussion should help you determine which features are important to
you in your particular use of these wonderful optical
instruments.
Magnification/Lens
Diameter
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Every pair of
binoculars should have a pair of numbers stamped on them that
reference power of magnification and the size of the front
(“Objective”) lens. An example would be 8 X 40.
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The first number (8
in this example) refers to the magnification, or how many times
closer an object will appear than with the naked eye; in this
case, it will appear 8 times closer than it really is.
There are many compromises in optics, and this is one of
them: the higher the magnification, the smaller the
field-of-view (how large an area you can see at a given distance),
and the more difficult it is to keep the image steady.
Higher magnification will not only magnify what you’re viewing, it
will magnify hand movement as well. Holding binoculars
without the aid of a support will work fine up to and including
10-power models.
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The second number
(40 in the above example) refers to the diameter of the front lens
of the binoculars, the objective lens.
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The objective lens gathers the light that will
eventually reach your eyes
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In general, a larger
objective lens means more light will be transmitted to the eye,
resulting in a perceived “brighter” and “crisper” image; however,
it will also result in a larger, heavier pair of
binoculars.
Brightness
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Binoculars come with
a variety of brightness levels, which means the amount of light
transmission through the multiple lenses of the binoculars to the
eye
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The primary deciding
factor in determining brightness is the size of the exit pupil, which is the size of the beam of
light that exits your binoculars to be used by your eyes
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A larger exit pupil
will allow more light to reach the eye, which is a benefit if you
plan to use your binoculars in lower light conditions but not as
necessary if they will be used outdoors in the sunshine
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To determine the
size of the exit pupil, divide the objective lens diameter
(millimeters) by the magnification power. Our 8 X 40 would
be 40 divided by 8 or an exit pupil of 5mm.
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A 3-mm to 5-mm exit
pupil is generally adequate for normal viewing. A 7-mm
is best for low-light use.
Prisms — Porro Prism vs.
Roof Prison
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Prisms are located
inside the binoculars and they transmit light from the objective
lens to the eyepiece and focus the image right-side-up for correct
viewing by the human eye
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Binoculars come in
two prism designs: porro prism and roof prism. Which one’s
for you?
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A porro prism offsets the eyepieces from the
objective lens to allow more brightness to be let in.
However, this makes the binoculars larger.
They are also generally less expensive than a
roof-prism binocular of the same quality.
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A roof prism aligns the lenses in a straight
configuration, which makes the design smaller. This style should
be chosen when size is a consideration, but the image is not as
bright as with a porro prism of equal quality.
Field of
view
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Field-of-View is the
measure of how much area you can see through your binoculars at
1,000 yards
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Generally, the
higher the magnification, the less the field of view
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This information is
always printed either on the instruction sheet or directly on the
binoculars
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The field of view
for a 7x binocular is usually 7 degrees, or 369 feet at 1,000
yards
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A wider field of
view, up to 9 degrees, is considered a wide-field model and is
best for wildlife viewing
What does price have to
do with selection?
This
is a common question, and it has to do mostly with 2
variables: 1) the quality of the glass used in manufacturing
the product and 2) the number of lens surfaces that are coated and
the number of coats-per-lens-surface. These two variables will
determine the clarity of the image reaching the eye and the total
light transmission at the exit pupil. Most inexpensive lenses
are clear in the center portion of the lens, but have abnormalities
toward the edges. The best (and most expensive) of lenses will
be clear throughout the entire surface of the lens, and these are
more costly to manufacture. Also, there is always a portion of
light transmission that is lost do to reflection of light at each
lens surface. To accommodate more light reaching the eye, the
lens surfaces of more expensive models are covered with a
non-reflective coating, resulting in additional manufacturing
costs. The more coatings, the more light transmission, the
more cost.
Does
it really make a difference? That can be answered by how you
will use your binoculars. If you are keeping binoculars on a
table next to the cabin picture window for occasional use, a
moderately priced pair in 10x50 porro-prism binoculars would work
fine, as you would not be concerned about weight, size, nor fine
detail/contrast. However, if you will be glassing
hillsides for long periods of time in search of wildlife, you will
want a higher quality lenses and coatings to provide maximum light
transmission, and a level of clarity that will prevent eye strain
and headaches. The greater contrast attainable with premium
binoculars will aid in separating background structure and the
objects on which you are focusing. You will also appreciate
the compactness and lighter weight of the roof prism style of
binocular.
The
information on this sheet should get you close to determining the
right model of binoculars to purchase, but for a complete discussion
of optics choices, contact a Joe’s expert at 888-468-6563 or stop by
to view our complete selection. If we do not have the
particular model you need, we can special order to your
specifications.
BINOCULAR MODELS TO
CONSIDER
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Magnification |
Objective
Lens |
Waterproof? |
Porro or Roof
Prism |
Models to
Consider |
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Hiking, bike
touring, nature walking |
7X-8X |
25 to
40mm |
no |
either |
Nikon 7X35 Action,
Nikon 8X25 Travelite V, Vortex 8.5X32 Raptor
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Outdoor sporting
events and concerts |
7X-8X |
25 to
40mm |
no |
either |
Nikon 7X35 Action,
Nikon 8X25 Travelite V, Vortex 8.5X32 Raptor
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Boating |
7X |
50mm |
yes |
either |
Bushnell 7X50
Marine Binoculars, Nikon 7X50 Sports and Marine
Binoculars |
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Bird
watching |
7X-8X |
35 to 40
mm |
no |
either |
Nikon 7X35 Action,
Nikon 8X40 Action, Vortex 8X42 Viper |
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At the cabin /
general |
8X-10X |
40 to
50mm |
no |
Porro |
Nikon 10X50
Action, Vortex Viper 8X42 |
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Bow hunting
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7X-10X |
25 to
32mm |
no |
Roof |
Nikon 10x25
Trailblazer ATB, |
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Glassing open
country |
10X |
30 to
50mm |
no |
either |
Swarovski 10x42
EL, Swarovski 10X42 SLC, Nikon 10X50 Action, Nikon 10X42
Monarch ATB, Vortex 10X42 Viper, Leupold 10X32
Goldring, |
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